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Weekender, Times Community Newspapers
Wednesday, June 9,1999
Dante Ristorante charms guests with fine
northern Italian cuisine
By MICHAEL BIRCHENALL Weekend Food Writer
Owner Elio Domestici of Dante Ristorante
knows the restaurant business and he didn't have to read a
marketing study or a manual to learn his interpretation of
service. He's learned it with hard work, a flair for hospitality
and a forward looking view of foodservice with an oldfashioned
style.
I met Domestici at a Chinese New Year's party held at Forbidden
City in McLean-the New Year before last. We had never met
before and haven't seen each other since-so when I walked
in recently without a dinner reservation, I could see he recognized
me immediately. Without missing a beat, we were taken to a
table in one of the separate parlors that make up the dining
room (with five new ones on the renovated second floor)
The kitchen under Giuseppe DiBenigno has matured since my
first visit four years ago. Service is comfortably efficient,
with the staff in black tie, while the customers range from
summer Great Falls casual to the more appropriately "dressed
for dinner" crowd.
The wine list is a decent compendium of a largely Italian
collection at a fair price. We had a delicious Ghemme from
the Piedmont region which is produced in Colli Nocaresi and
is made primarily from in Nebbiolo grapes. The 1992 vintage
has matured, and the wine reflected its dry flavors from the
aging in oak or chestnut casks.
The servers bring as fine a bread to the table as you will
find in the area. His kitchen is produces crusty peasant bread
and an addictive foccacia. With its thin slices of tomato
and salt on top that we could not resist. For appetizers,
the calamari fritti are light and tasty and the carpaccio
(paper thin slices of raw beef with lemon, parmesan, mushrooms
and olive oil) is a tradition they have mastered. The slices
are thin but can wrap the shaved parmesan and with a splash
of the citrus from the lemon, the flavors come together and
make the palate sparkle.
Osso Buco is another tradition that receives fresh treatment
from the Dante kitchen. The veal shank is fork tender and
sinfully rich in its cooking flavors. The veal scallopine
comes sauteed with mushrooms, proscuitto, shaved parmesan
and a port wine sauce. Again, the work is "forktender," and
the intense combination is skillfully prepared by the kitchen.
Here it is the sauce that forms the backbone to the dish holding
the complementary accompaniments in their rightful taste place.
Desserts are not to be ignored. We had eyed the dark layered
chocolate cake (filled with a chocolate mousse) on the way
in, and room had been saved for the treat at the end.
Over a properly prepared espresso, the meal became a delightful
memory, with a thought to planning our next visit. We looked
around the room and saw other tables conversing with each
other, comparing dinner choices, and having a fine time.
Dante Ristorante is comfortable in their home in Great Falls
- and they like to share their good taste with the always
welcome guests.
DANTE RISTORANTE
1148 Walker Road
Great Falls, VA 22068
Tel: 703.759-3131
Hours:
Lunch: Monday-Friday,
11:30a.m.-2:30 p.m.
Dinner: Monday-Saturday: 5:30 p.m.-10:30 p.m.
Sunday, 4-9 p.m.
Credit Cards: All major
Cuisine: Northern
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FORMAL FARE:
Dante's Chef Giuseppe DiBenigno
in the Board Room at Dante Ristorante.
Times Staff Photo/David S.
Holloway |
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