Dante's Bellissuno
by Joanna Lewis , elan, May, 2000

DANTE'S CHEF Giuseppe DiBenigno and manager Elio Domestici, who have known each other for more than 20 years, decided 10 years to open a restaurant in Great Falls. They chose the historic Leigh House (it was built in the late 1800's) to be the site for their new venture, and Dante's was born.

They converted the home into seven intimate dining rooms, each with its own ambience. The largest seats 42 dinner guests; the smallest only six. The restaurant is beautifully decorated and accessorized. China is Villeroy & Boch. White linen and fresh flowers adorn the tables.

As beautiful as the surroundings are, the food is the star here. Appetizers sampled were fried calamari, grilled eggplant with roasted peppers and buffalo mozzarella, in addition to a small portion of the daily special, peppardelle with wild boar. The calamari was perfectly fried, the grilled eggplant an exquisite combination of flavors, and the peppardelle with wild boar was perfect in flavor and texture. While ingredients account for a pasta's flavor, Chef DeBenigni says the secret of the texture is the drying time before cooking, a minimum of 20 minutes. The sauce was delicious, with wine, bay leaves, onions and carrots in addition to the finely chopped boar. Entrees were rabbit legs with grilled polenta, and osso buco with a soft polenta. This restaurant certainly has polenta down pat. The rabbit was a fine rendition, having been sauteed with rosemary, onions, carrots, red wine and a small amount of tomato, its only drawback a slightly oversalted sauce. The osso buco, finished with a chianti and pine nut sauce, was wonderfully tender; this cartilaginous cut of meat is perfect for the long stewing they give it. Sauces at Dante's are long-simmered and carefully prepared. Tiramisu for dessert was delicious. I was served three perfectly suited wines to go with each course.

The wait staff is impressive. They are courteous and attentive without being obtrusive; a look is to summon a waiter, who seemed to anticipate my needs without asking.

Lunch prices for entrees are $10 to $15; dinner entrees range from $16 to $23. In sum, you can go Dante's and be assured an excellent meal, in beautiful surroundings, served by a knowledgeable and attentive staff. What more could you ask for?

Dante's is located at 1148 Walker Road, Great Falls. Open Monday through Friday for lunch, 11: 30 to 2:30; dinner seven nights a week. For reservations: 759-313 1.